Friday, 16 January 2026

Almost time to move on

We had the ride from hell into Chiang mai, drivers and scooters with not a clue as to what's going on. Glad to get back to our digs and drop the bikes of unscathed. 
Got a burger and wine in the afternoon , it had to be done, also calculated the mileages 
Big bikes 2250km
Small bikes 1245km 
Total just shy of 3500 km or 2175 miles ! Not too shabby!

Spent the rest of the week chilling in Chiang Mai , we met our aussie friends one night and apart from that  really just chilled. Thursday we went to an elephant sanctuary, 2 1/2 hours there in a minibus, felt like a tourist which I hate. The sanctuary was nice, we fed the elephants then walked with them to a swamp but  we got close to them, a bit too close sometimes. We had to walk up and down some pretty extreme gradients which I didn't like, then on the way back for lunch I lost my balance and fell, thought I was taking the quick way down but Fiona grabbed me which was good.

Not ideal really and I wasn't too happy but when we got back for lunch I chilled out a bit. We spent the afternoon feeding the elephants and making some medicine for them to help them shit which is a problem seemingly, our elephants didn't seem to have problems in that department! Then a 2 1/2 hour trip back, so happy to get off the bus!
Today we tried to apply for our visas for Laos only to find we were too late in applying, major panic this morning before we saw itshould be possible to get them on arrival, oh well, some more excitement I don't really need.

So tomorrow Laos ( or maybe not) stay tuned in for more riveting tales 

Nice sunset the night before we returned the bikes 
Fi and some of the women mixing up the medicine
hungry 
a bit close
like me a struggle to get uphill !
impressive 

Sunday, 11 January 2026

Uphills and downhills, keeping moving

 After a few days off in Mae Hong song it was time to move on, stopped at a bamboo bridge over rice fields for some photos and then at the fish cave by which time it was very hot, we left and twisted and turned through several hairpins, busy as hell and as always the driving got crazier as it got hotter. We think its people returning home after the holidays, I certainly hope so, didn't enjoy much of the ride today, very jealous of the bigger bikes. Eventually arrived at our jungle lodge cabin, cool place both aesthetically and temperature wise .

Nice cabin in Pang Marpha in the town but in a jungle setting. Landlady was super nice, she was a good cook as well, it got cold as soon as the sun went down and we retired back to our room which was very cold. There seemed to be a rave going on in the town which sounded like it was next door, sadly watched a netflix movie on Fi's phone to escape the noise. Very cold at night .

After a wonderful breakfast we set off towards Pai , up mountains and down mountains, sometimes 10mph uphill but better than than the crazy cyclists doing the "loop"
Our digs was another cabin which was excellent and it was hot! We tried to book another night but they were fully booked. After a walk at night down the walking street full of tourists ( actually felt more like Ibiza) I was glad to move on.
Heading towards Chiang Mai its still bend after bend ,uphill and downhill, we stopped just a few miles from our digs at a roadside burger joint which was cool as they rehabilitate disabled people.

We got to our wee hut in the jungle, very rustic and mozzie hell, i tried sitting outside but they got us again and again so we had to admit defeat. The very nice guy couldn't do enough for us and cooked us a dinner, lit a small fire which kept the mozzies away, a nice evening all in all.
We mentioned breakfast and at 8 am the guy delivered it to our patio. Big problem was it was a full Thai breakfast and i cant eat early in the morning. The biggest problem was when we got the bill, over 1500 baht which was twice what we expected, it pissed us off a bit, rustic setting but paying very dearly for the experience. So lesson to selfs , ask for the cost before because after you cant complain. (In the grand scheme of things its not a lot of money its just the feeling of being taken for a ride that pisses me off )

We ended up in quite a cool place but unfortunately with a big family of Thais next door, they were very noisy and sound proofing isn't a thing here!
We decided to book in for another couple of days after we have been to a Homestay in Wiang haeng on the Maynamar  Border,  a difficult ride on the 125s with much going uphill at 10mph and the same down as you can't trust the brakes . All good though and definitely an adventure. 

Another home stay another morning figuring out how much we will get charged,  always dearer than hotels but we live and learn ( do we ), It was a very nice place rustic, there was a dummy fire in our sitting room, we were freezing and wished it had worked! As always the bill was much bigger than we thought, we never learn, nice place though with stunning views,

The ride back to our hotel was actually quite good, following the same road and a stop at the top of the mountain  at the same cafe. we got chatting to a girl who was with some monks, one of them was a mad Liverpool fan and he was actually there in 25 for a game, very strange!

Just dawdling now until we get back to Chiang Mai, we leave Thailand next Saturday for another part of the adventure!
Now about an hour from Chiang Mai, we return bikes on Tuesday so we will just chill until then.

The photos are a wee bit out of sequence but the internet has been crap so frustration got the better of me


Another Wat, wat was that?
From our room veranda 
With our hosts Frank and Jasmine
I met her 12 years ago, hasn't changed, a member of the long neck tribes or Karen
Busy, last time we were here it was only us
Mae Hong Song from the Wat
Night again
Wee posing photo ( no I didn't ride the bike really dressed like that)
riverside
ma and my new bird, she's very quiet though
scary spice
Guzzi model, very strange
Me looking blurry
I didn't but we didn't see the elephant
German on tour, jealous of his bike
Nice park
Nice view
Petrol stop, old style
Fiona posing
Waterfall posing
Man made adventure park but quite nice and relaxing
Hairpins every few yards, not so relaxing
My bike at a very long drop
Hills and nature
Bamboo bridge, wasn't sure it would take my weight
Looking at mair hills
Thumbs up
Nice landlady, braw cook and not a rip off

In pai, tourist hell
Jungle, mozzies and quite expensive 
Fiona taking advantage of the facilities

Cauld
No cauld
Very cool burger stop, helping rehabilitate people with disabilities (and me who had a lack of meat disability)
No real
Strange flowers
mair waterfalls
relaxing
water park again
nice gardens
Nice digs but dear and cold!

Wednesday, 31 December 2025

A guid new year tae ane and awe

 Sitting writing this on Hogmanay in a very hot Mae Hon Son so to recap over the last week, here goes:

We got up which was a good start to a Saturday morning and loaded our Honda 125s then went for breakfast, the traffic in Chiang Mai is a bit manic and we were both bit worried. I started off by leaving the sidestand down, newbie mistake!

Eventually we made our way out of the massive upban sprawl , several near misses and a lot of swearing later we entered the Doi Inthanon national park which cost us 640 baht which is around £15. We met a fellow biker who spoke to us, being on lowly 125s we were surprised, he spoke good English and had a local tan but transpired he was from Afghanistan and lived in Norway for 30 years since he left his homeland as a child, super nice guy, offered us somewhere to stay in Norway the next time we are there, does track days on a sv650 in Norway.


The warden at the entrance shouted something about be careful of brakes. Then we began the climb up the mountain, the brakes are a joke and there is no power, i was down to first gear for the final climb!
Of course the local tour vans and tourist 4×4 transports had to get by us no matter what, finally we reached the summit which was over 2000 metres . We stopped to take a photo but it was mobbed so we didn't hang around. The downhill journey was equally stressful, no brakes and the engine over revving I was happy to eventually roll into Mae Chen to stop for the night. Over 130 kms and a sore arse that was enough!


We were having cutting out issues with our bikes so went for a wee run Sunday to see if they were better when they had cooled down, they were actually worse, it was like the tickover was to low and the gearbox seemed rough. We got in touch with the renter had a bit of a back and forth on whatsapp and then nothing. We spent an afternoon thinking about what to do and then out of the blue 2 guys from the shop arrived with two replacements ! Excellent, the latest ones have done over 70k kms but seemed smoother and more importantly they tick over !


We left Mae Chaen and the replacement bikes were so much better, just as well as we went up and down mountains, at some point i actually had to paddle the bike in first gear uphill. Fiona with her lighter weight kept passing me uphill, the constant bends meant you couldn't really build up speed. A stop at a very busy viewpoint for a cup of tea and then in a small village for lunch , around 100km today which I think is my limit driving the small bikes especially on these roads.


Heading back from our excellent pizza that night, served outdoor, dirt floor, sitting on 5 gallon drums with cushions to make it comfortable ( pizza was excellent btw) we spotted 6 young lads on their 125s loaded up with camping gear obviously away on a camping trip for new year. That could have been us years ago what happened to the youth, too rich? Lazy? Or just tied to their phones or TV? Mind you our weather doesn't help, who knows .


And then a 80Km run into Mae Hong Son, enjoyed the ride, we seem to be getting the hang of it, still not buying one! We have been here before, nice town and the are having a new year party tonight so we think we will stay here for a few days and maybe just have the odd loop around here. 


Rest stop with the latest bikes
Fiona always happy...
At the beginning of the Doi Intanon national park
Fiona walked to get this photo , I watched the bikes :-)
Beer
Test ride, not good!
Gone Fishing
Stunning
And this
And again
You get the idea
Taking shade
Roadside cafe
Local schoolgirls going to a end of school traditional Thing
Work related thing!
Not work related
Sorry
Happy guys on tour
Just near the park
Posing for a photo
Night market
Cool place to hand out
Breakfast on Hogmanay

Have a great 2026 wherever you are